My Boiler # 1 Information BOILERS
Our home was built in 1925 this coal fired boiler was installed in 1932. Sometime later it was converted to gas.
Water treatment uses "Heat Link 01205 @ $46/l (Bartle & Gibson)
1 Liter does 48 gal of water, this is basic as adding heat link drives the PH up. PH should be between 9-10.5
Boiler water replacement (word file)
Radiator Repair: Leaks
When it comes to fixing leaking radiators,
there's no easy solution—it all depends on where the leak is and how severe it
is. Steam radiators, because they're under much less pressure than hot water
radiators, are usually the easier of the two to fix. To begin, first determine
where the leak is. An inspection mirror (available at your local hardware store)
can help, since it will allow you to see around corners and up into spaces not
easily viewed. If the leak is just a pinhole, and not a major disaster from a
hard freeze, you may be able to fix it.
There are no products you can pour into a radiator to stop a leak, but a
representative from J-B Weld Company of Sulfur Springs, Texas, says many of
their customers have had great success using J-B Weld to fix old cast-iron
radiators. Several professionals who visit my web site,
HeatingHelp.com,
also report having used it to successfully repair radiator leaks.
The process is a bit involved, though. First,
drain the radiator and remove any paint, primer, or rust from the area of the
leak. Next, clean the surface with a non-petroleum-based cleaner, such as
acetone or lacquer thinner, to remove all dirt, grease, and oil. Then rough up
the surface with a file, mix the two elements of the product together in 50/50
proportions, and apply it to a thickness of no less than 1⁄32 inch, being
careful not to get any on your skin or in your eyes. After letting it dry for at
least 15 hours, you can check and see what you've got.
I asked if the product could handle the
fluctuations in temperature—and resulting expansion and contraction—common in
cast-iron radiators. The rep told me the product actually "softens" when heated,
and will move with the metal. It's not the sort of softening you'll notice,
though. You'd have to get the temperature up to 400° F to see that happen (the
product is good up to 500°). Typically, a steam radiator will top out at about
229°, and a hot-water radiator at about 180°. As long as you can access the leak
(and are willing to put in the effort), it sounds like this might be a good
solution.